Italy Retreat

Can you imagine the fragrance of a house made of lemons and oranges? This is one of the structures built during the lemon festival in Menton, France. Okay, it's not in Italy but Menton used to be Italy until it became part of France. It's on the Italian/French border.

If you'd like a list of the major festivals (sagras) in Italy, check out the GO ITALY website.



From: Fodor's Review:
Beautiful beaches, rugged cliffs, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and plentiful small hotels and restaurants make Monterosso al Mare, the largest of the Cinque Terre villages (population 1,730), the busiest in midsummer. The village center bustles high on a hillside. Below, connected by stone steps, are the port and seaside promenade, where there are boats for hire. The medieval tower, Aurora, on the hills of the Cappuccini, separates the ancient part of the village from the more modern part. The village is encircled by hills covered with vineyards and olive groves, and by a forest of scrubby bushes and small trees.

Monterosso has the most festivals of the five villages, starting with the Lemon Feast on the Saturday preceding Ascension Sunday, followed by the Flower Festival of Corpus Christi, celebrated yearly on the second Sunday after Pentecost. During the afternoon, the streets and alleyways of the centro storico (historic center) are decorated with thousands of colorful flower petals set in beautiful designs that the evening procession passes over.

Finally, the Salted Anchovy and Olive Oil Festival takes place each year during the second weekend of September. In 2009, the festival is Saturday, September 19.
Thursday, the market (Old town center. Thurs. 8-1) attracts mingled crowds of tourists and villagers from along the coast to shop for everything from pots and pans and underwear to fruits, vegetables, and fish. Often a few stands sell local art and crafts as well as olive oil and wine.

Traditionally anchovies were preserved in salt for practical reasons. Up till today, they are still preserved in the same way, seasoned in olive oil and kept in glass containers ready to be enjoyed with bruschette and a glass of local white wine.

At the end of month, Monterosso has another food event, the Tournament of the Nuts along the streets of the village.

12 more days and i'll be walking the streets of Monterosso. I'll be there for the anchovy festival and perhaps I'll find some other sagri(festivals).

Due Partite (2 games or matches) looks like a beautiful movie about eight Italian women-- mothers and their daughters. I don’t think it has been released in the US yet but when it is released, I think it is a 'must see.' Here is the trailer and partite finale on Youtube. It was originally a play written by Cristina Comencini.

Excerpt from ~ Nathan Southern, All Movie Guide: "In Italy circa 1966, four female friends meet regularly over a game of canasta, to discuss their hopes, fears and concerns. Frustrations also emerge - many tied to the women's histories of extinguishing personal dreams in exchange for the false promises advertised as nuptial bliss. Thus begins helmer Enzo Monteleone's intimate ensembler Due Partite. The setting then shifts to Italy in 1996, when the women's daughters begin meeting for canasta, reflect on their own lives, and ponder a tragedy that befell one of the mothers. The cast features Margherita Buy, Claudia Pandolfi, Isabella Ferrari and several other mainstays of the Italian screen."

Watch for the movie to be released in the US with subtitles.

One of the top 10 art festivals in Europe in being held this week in one of my favorite towns in Italy: Cortona. If you're in Italy, hop on over to Cortona in Tuscany. Yesterday the tour included a visit to the San Francesco church and by shuttle to ‘Le Celle’, the monastery where Saint Francis of Assisi lived in the 13th century, set in a beautiful rock sanctuary. My husband and I happened upon this church when we were there 3 years ago, and its magic is still present in my heart.

Enjoy the festival and all the photos on the Tuscan Sun site: http://www.tuscansunfestival.com/

Let me know if you attend!

This youtube video is so heart expanding to watch while you listen to three young tenors singing O Sole Mio in Italy. Italian opera is both the art of opera in Italy and opera in the Italian language. Opera was born in Italy around the year 1600 and Italian opera has continued to play a dominant role in the history of opera until the present day. If you want to expand your knowledge of Italian opera, I urge you to check out Fred Plotkin's book, Opera 101: A Complete Guide to Learning and Loving Opera.

Click on the center arrow in the video and enjoy!



Enjoy the words: Italian words followed by the English translation:
Che bella cosa na jurnata 'e sole,
n'aria serena doppo na tempesta!
Pe' ll'aria fresca pare già na festa...
Che bella cosa na jurnata 'e sole.

Ma n'atu sole
cchiù bello, oje ne'.
O sole mio
sta 'nfronte a te!
O sole
O sole mio
sta 'nfronte a te!
sta 'nfronte a te!

Quanno fa notte e 'o sole se ne scenne,
me vene quase 'na malincunia;
sotto 'a fenesta toia restarria
quanno fa notte e 'o sole se ne scenne.

Ma n'atu sole
cchiù bello, oje ne'.
O sole mio
sta 'nfronte a te!
O sole
O sole mio
sta 'nfronte a te!
sta 'nfronte a te!

English Translation

What a wonderful thing a sunny day
The serene air after a thunderstorm
The fresh air, and a party is already going on…
What a wonderful thing a sunny day.

But another sun,
that’s brighter still
It’s my own sun
that’s in your face!
The sun, my own sun
It’s in your face!
It’s in your face!

When night comes and the sun has gone down,
I start feeling blue;
I’d stay below your window
When night comes and the sun has gone down.

But another sun,
that’s brighter still
It’s my own sun
that’s in your face!
The sun, my own sun
It’s in your face!
It’s in your face

My husband is a gem dealer and travels a great deal throughout the US and abroad. He has traveled many millions of miles around the world, so he wanted to share his top 10 travel tips, based on his experiences.

1.) Hydrate. Drink lots of water before, during and after the flights even if you don't feel thirsty. Drink more than you think you need. This will reduce jetlag by 3-5% The air on airplanes is drier than the desert.

2.) Exercise. The rigors of long distance travel are demanding physically and mentally so exercise regularly in your life, especially after arriving at your destination. When you do arrive, do some sort of physical exercise, even if it's a long brisk walk. This will speed the recovery from jetlag.

3.) Eat lightly on the plane. Airplane food is some of the worst nutrition to put in your body. If you eat lightly or not at all, especially on long international flights over 7-10 hours, you'll be far better off.
Elimination is a result of eating, and long flights sitting for extended periods of time creates constipation, so load up on the oatmeal for several days before your journey to get the elimination working efficiently.

4.) Get up and walk around on the plane, to exercise your legs. You can go to the back of the plane to do knee bends along with some yoga stretches, arms over head, stretch side to side. When sitting, move your ankles in circular motions and don't cross your legs.

5.) One of the best remedies for long distance travel is simple: Keep your eyes closed. This means sleep, meditate, or even just rest with your eyes closed for hours at a time. You reduce the stress whereas watching movies and reading adds to the strain.

6.) Noise cancelling earphones are around $350 but they help reduce the stress of sound (Amazon has used ones for sale also). For a much less expensive choice, buy spongy earplugs and a bucky eye cover. These eye covers are padded for increased comfort. You'll reduce the stress and feel better when you arrive at your destination.

7.) Drink calming vata tea, which is an herbal tea that is made with Indian herbs and is used for calming, relaxing, and aiding that spaced out feeling you can get when you're jetlagged.

8.) Have an oil massage as soon as you can after reaching your destination. It reduces stress and gets you grounded in your body again.

9.) Begin to live according to the time zone you travel to, which means if you arrive in Italy at 10am, and it's actually 3am in your hometown, you will stay up for the day. Take a walk outside and reset your internal clock as well as your watch.

10.) If you have jet lag, try to get a full night's sleep. Then try to stay up all day. Melatonin liquid is a natural help for sleep and usually works well. If you wake up at 2 or 3 am and can't go back to sleep, take melatonin judiciously to stay asleep.

PHOTO: My husband, Jay, and a statue of Apollo archer in Pompeii, Italy

Do you have other travel tips you'd like to share? Just click 'comments'

TRAVELING: Women should carry a daypack instead of a purse. Leave fancy jewelry at home. Keep your valuables in your money belt and tuck your wallet (containing only a day’s worth of cash) in your front pocket. Keep your camera zipped up in your daypack. In crowded places (buses, subways, street markets), carry your daypack over your chest or firmly under one arm. Ask at your hotel or the tourist office if there’s a neighborhood you should avoid, and mark it on your map.
The bulk of your luggage is clothing. Minimize by bringing less and washing more often. Every few nights you’ll spend 10 minutes doing a little wash. Choose dark clothes that dry quickly and either don’t wrinkle or look good wrinkled. Give everything a wet rehearsal by hand-washing and drying once at home.

Pack Light and Travel Happy

Think in Terms of What You Can Do Without. Bring very little. Whether you’re traveling for three weeks or three months, you pack exactly the same. (Besides, we want to buy at least one item of clothing on our trip, so we need room in our suitcase).

WHAT TO PACK AND HOW TO PACK:
Author Rick Steves is a master at packing lightly. He recommends: Spread out everything you think you might need on the living room floor. Pick up each item and scrutinize it. Ask yourself, “Will I really use this snorkel and these fins enough to justify carrying them around all summer? Will I use them enough to feel good about carrying them over the Swiss Alps?”

You’ll never meet a traveler who, after five trips, brags, “Every year I pack heavier.” The measure of a good traveler is how light she travels. You can’t travel heavy, happy, and cheap. Pick two. Call your airline (or read the fine print on your ticket) for details. If you have to check your bag, mark it inside and out with your name, address, and emergency phone number.

Limit yourself to 20 pounds in a carry-on-size bag. A 9” x 22” x 14” bag fits under most airplane seats. This weight and size is for European travel, which is much less than U.S requirements. When you carry your own luggage it’s less likely to get lost, broken, or stolen. And when you arrive you don’t have to wait around for your bag. After you enjoy that sweet mobility and freedom, you’ll never go any other way. If you must bring another suitcase, keep it small and light even if you check it, as you will be pulling it behind you as you continue to travel.

1.) Socks: 1-2 pairs
Despite the fact that it feels nice and is a natural fibre, cotton is just about the worst sock fabric imaginable. Walking experts overwhelmingly recommend socks made of synthetic yarns (CoolMax, Capilene, PolarTec, and other polyesters are but a few) to keep your feet comfortable and dry. Blends that add wool or alpaca are also acceptable, especially in cooler weather; they don't wear as well, though. The main function of socks is to "wick" (draw) moisture away from the skin.

2.) Trench coat: Looks fashionable, warm enough, rain repellent. Can wear on the plane so it doesn't bulk up your suitcase.

3.) Scarf: necktie, scarf, hairband, bandanna
Accessorizing is a good way to stretch a wardrobe; for women in particular, a well-chosen scarf can dramatically alter the appearance — and thus multiply the utility — of an outfit. Costume jewellery also works well in this manner. In colder weather, a long woolen scarf can add a surprisingly effective layer, as can a warm shawl.

4.) Shoes: Don't break in a new pair of shoes on your trip. For many women, myself included, shoes are a big weight challenge.

Try to find a pair that works with everything you're taking. Thin heels are problematic on cobblestones and when trekking uphill (despite the observation that plenty of Italian women traipse all over in their high heels. Modest wedges and chunky heels are more practical. If you do take a second pair of shoes, be sure to utilize their interior spaces for packing purposes.

The Italy Retreat I'll be teaching in Cinque Terre will involve a lot of walking uphill with some hiking on the trails connecting the 5 Cinque Terre villages. Then I'm staying in Italy for 3 more weeks, so packing lightly is even more of a challenge, as I'll be tired of wearing the same things for 30 days.

TRAVEL CHECK LIST: Carrying your checklist with you during your travels can also be useful when repacking, by helping to ensure that you have not forgotten anything.
The consistent use of such a checklist (keep one in your bag, or the room where you regularly pack) is the single most important step you can take to lighten your packing load.

MISCELLANEOUS:
• Address list. Taking a whole address book is not packing light—bring a list of email and snail mail addresses. Consider typing a sheet of gummed address labels.

• Postcards or small picture book of your hometown and pictures of your family to share with people you meet as a conversational ice breaker.

• Small notepad and pen. A tiny notepad in your back pocket is a great organizer, reminder, and communication aid (for sale in European stationery stores).

• Journal. This will be your most treasured souvenir. Use a hardbound type designed to last a lifetime. Attach a copy of your itinerary.

•A good paperback. There's plenty of empty time on a trip to either be bored or enjoy some good reading.

• Radio, Walkman, MP3 player, or recorder. Partners can bring a Y-jack for two sets of earphones.

• Collapsible umbrella.

• Tiny lock. Use it to lock your backpack zippers shut. There are pickpockets. Some of them are children.

• Spot remover. Bring Shout wipes or a dab of Goop (grease cleaner) or Tide to Go pen for food and drink stains.

• Bug repellant. Especially for France and Italy.

• Gifts. Local kids love T-shirts and hologram cards, and gardeners appreciate flower seeds.

Do you have any tips to help us travel lightly and happily in Italy?

PHOTO: My husband and 2 kids, Grace and David traveling lightly at the Roma airport,

The next to the last village of the 5 villages (Cinque Terre) is Manarola. Although the towns are overrun by tourists , Manarola remains uncorrupted by tourism. There are only a few stores. The restaurant recommended by author Fred Plotkin, in Italy for the Gourmet Traveler is "Ristorante Marina Piccola, Via Discovolo 38. You can eat outdoors to enjoy a good meal, beautiful setting and atmosphere. The pesto is excellent; as are the muscoli ripieni. Grilled fish is very good, and the wine is from the Cinqueterre cooperative."

As I mentioned in an earlier post, the walk from Rio Maggiore to Manarola is an easy 20 minute stroll. For more adventure, we'd walk on some of the other trails in the Cinque Terre.

The walk from Manarola to Corniglia is 3km long and takes about 1 hour. Parts of this trail are again pretty easy, but it is steeper and at times the ground is uneven under foot. The most exhausting part of this section is at the end, once you arrive at Corniglia train station. The station is located at the bottom of the hill, by the ocean, but the town of Corniglia is located on top of the hill....and there are approx 365 stairs to climb up to get up to the village!!

The section between Corniglia and Vernazza is the most scenic part, through varied landscapes - you walk through olive groves and forest, and then along the cliff edge, with spectacular views coming into Vernazza. This section is 4km long and takes about 1.5 hours to complete.

The section between Vernazza and Monterosso is the most difficult. It is 4kms long and has lots of ups and downs and steep stairs. It is little less scenic than the others, but you do get a good view of some of the local vineyards. The fun of hiking the trails is that you know that you can find delicious gelato in the next town or enjoy a glass of wine or expresso to celebrate your accomplishments.

Have you been here. Any advice?