Italy Retreat

Video of the flood in Vernazza, of the Cinque Terre, and cars being washed away on Tuesday, October 25.

Hiking Trail and the Vernazza Harbor BEFORE THE FLOOD:





Last week I wrote about the flooding and mudslide devastation in Monterosso, and today, about another beautiful Cinque Terre town, Vernazza.

It's hard to believe that only a month ago, I was hiking the Cinque Terre Trails, and marveling at the beauty of the five villages. When I think of Vernazza, I remember eating pesto pizza under colorful umbrellas on the promontory by the sea, and then lying on the stone walls in the harbor watching the Italian water taxi owners navigating into the idyllic turquoise waters of the harbor.

Artists and photographers love capturing this perfection. Participants of my Italy Retreat for Women and I passed a lazy afternoon digesting the pizza and resting from our 90 minute breathtaking hike from Monterosso to Vernazza, which included hundreds and hundreds of steps. A wedding was taking place at the church, and my group and I thought we were in heaven or shangri-la. We truly deeply experienced la dolce fa niente, the sweetness of doing nothing.

Then, like a horror movie, on Tuesday, October 25, this jewel on the Italian Riviera was covered with up to 12 feet of mud. Cars, boats, and possessions were sucked like corks in an undertow, into a mudslide and street turned into a raging river.

I have spent a week each year, for the past three years, in Cinque Terre, and this year I repeatedly commented that the water was crystal clear, more beautiful than any other time. It reminded me more of the Caribbean. Now the harbor water is muddy and the streets and piazza covered with mud.

But, they will recover, although our support is crucial.

WHAT YOU CAN DO: Firstly, plan to visit the Cinque Terre during the tourist season, so that their businesses can prosper. Secondly, please give to their recovery fund. Every small amount will add up. This is a part of the world that is paradise, and we can help insure that it rebuilds.

Several ex-pats from the US, who now live in Vernazza, have created a website called Save Vernazza ONLUS, so you can donate DIRECTLY to Vernazza. Please spread the word.

If you have ever visited Cinque Terre, you would know this is a cause worth supporting. And if you have not had the pleasure, please add Cinque Terre to your travel list in 2012, or join me in September 2012 as I will be returning there for my Italy Retreat for Women.

The residents of Vernazza were evacuated, however, members of the army and rescue team have continued with the clean-up.
You can view a video of the clean up progress that has been made so far at YouReporter.it.

Be sure also to visit Nicole at CulturalComments Blog for more photos and updated information on Vernazza.

Photo credit: Before photos I took in September of Vernazza Harbor and some of the steps on the Vern-Monterosso Trail
Photo credit: After the flood: from Come To Liguria Blog.

I have talked to many people who have loved visiting Italy. It fills them on so many levels, (not just gastronimically) but on a deep soul level--the beauty is breathtaking because you are surrounded by gorgeous natural landscape, in addition to a people that are very welcoming.

These are some of the reasons I am teaching my 3rd annual workshop in Cinque Terre, Italy. We can all reconnect with ourselves by spending time in the natural beauty of an ancient land. It is a place where we can find deep contentment and freedom.

As written in the wonderful New York Times article in August 2007, "It's almost unfair how much intense beauty, great cuisine and amazing aromas are jampacked into such a compact space."

In fact, the only way to truly experience the sensory overload that this small area has to offer is by getting off those well-trodden paths.

There are benches where you can sit and admire the view or just watch all the people wandering by. There is a small restaurant on the Via dell' Amore where you can get something to eat and drink. Picnic tables with a spectacular view are located above the restaurant. You do have to walk up a number of steps to get to the picnic area.

Details about each of the paths that connect the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre is from the Discover Walking Blog.
It would take at least 5-6 hours to hike through all five of the Cinque Terre villages.

Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza: This is a difficult trail that is 2.5 miles (4km) with many up's and down's. It will take most people between 1.5 and 2 hours depending on how many stops you make to admire the view.

Vernazza to Corniglia: This is the most difficult of the four trails and has the least number of ocean views. It will take most people about 2 hours to hike this 2.5 mile (4 km) trail. The terrain is uneven in places and you will have to be able to hike up and down hills.

Corniglia to Manarola: This is an easy 45 minutes walk and you have an ocean view for the entire walk. The trail is less than 2 miles (3km).

Manarola to Riomaggiore: This .5 mile trail (.6 km) is an easy stroll on a paved walkway. It will take about 30 minutes to walk the path.

If you'd like to see more photos of the Cinque Terre and find out more about the September 10-18, 2011 workshop and travel experience that I'll be teaching, check out my website at ChangeLimitingBeliefs.com.

Photo #1: I climbed down to the rocks off the hiking trails. You can see some of the trails in the distance.
Photo #2: I'm walking on the path from Corniglia to Manarola (two Cinque Terre towns)

Vernazza, considered by many to be the most charming of the five Cinque Terre towns was documented for the first time in 1080. It is the second most northern of the Cinque Terre villages. You can reach it by boat, trails, or train.
The architecture, the extraordinary views, and the quiet way of life all make Vernazza a special place to visit. My friend, Rae, visited a couple summers ago and said, "It was the most magical city I have ever been to - that gorgeous blue color of the sea, the multicolored buildings, the warmest people. Every night the families would congregate in the square - from oldest to babies. There would be singing, dancing or music and so much laughter. The place is small, and intimate. The food is fabulous.It was like being in a movie. It is the one place I would return to, if I could for a visit or longer stay."


Great architectural buildings like lodges, churches, casetorri and arcades have been there since Medieval times. Vernazza is dominated by the remains of the “castrum” a series of Medieval forts dating back to the XI century, with a cylindrical castle and tower. The most important historical monument is Santa Margherita di Antiochia (St. Margaret of Antioch), a Roman-Genovese style church, that dates back to the XIII century.

In his book, "Italy for the Gourmet Traveler", author Fred Plotkin, describes Vernazza in this way: "the main street, Via Roma, as looking like a stage set for an opera. Shuttered windows can open to reveal family vignettes. People call across the narrow street from one window to to another. One afternoon in late October, he was sprawled on the slate rocks near the port basking in the warmth of the setting sun as middle-aged Englishwomen and young Swiss men braved the cold waters. Local fishermen sat at the dock mending nets and cutting bait for the next morning's expedition."
The houses are built on slopes, in a single central street reached by perpendicularly steep flights of steps called “arpaie”. It's these steps and the cliffs that bring me to my usual advice--GET IN SHAPE--Walk, Climb hills and walk up and down steps NOW, so that you can enjoy everyday as we climb the stairways to heaven.
Have you been to Vernazza? Any tips?